Adventures in Road Tripping, Part Two
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We left Orange County at midnight because it was Memorial Day Weekend and we had to drive through Los Angeles; I took highway 395 up the east side of the Sierras for essentially the same reason. It was 500 miles to Lake Tahoe, and we arrived mid-morning. Despite being completely exhausted, we then proceeded to tour around the lake, and finished off with a six-mile hike from D.L. Bliss park to Emerald Bay. By the time we finished with supper and returned to our rented condo, I had literally lost the capacity for rational thought.
There is a harrowing section of highway 50 that crosses a sharp, glacially-carved ridge between Emerald Bay and Cascade Lake. The ridge top is about as wide as the two-lane road, and has no shoulder or guardrails of any kind. I couldn't help getting that yawning feeling in my diaphragm every time we drove across it.
The lake is, as everyone says, an impossible shade of blue. The surface ripples are also strangely soft, like the lava in a lava lamp.
The next day was a side trip to
Virginia City, Nevada, across the Washoe Valley from the Sierras and Tahoe. I didn't expect much, a ghost town with a museum and tourist traps, but I am a big Mark Twain fan and VC is where he built his writing chops, and he has much to say about his life there in his autobiographical
Roughing It. (There's also a good story about him accidentally setting a forest fire at Lake Tahoe.) It actually turned out to be a worthwhile stop. Though the economy is tourist-driven, it feels more like a bustling town that happens to have rich history oozing from its pores. Most of the old buildings on C street are still intact, including Twain's newspaper, the
Territorial Enterprise. The main museum was poorly-organized, but interesting and large, and the shops had genuinely interesting stuff, from ostrich-skin boots to period coins made from local silver, to exotic candies and sodas, to fossil fish. Virginia City sits directly on top of the
Comstock Lode, the largest silver strike in US History, and so many of the shops have access to the hundreds of miles of abandoned mine shafts below the city. Virginia City Jerky and BBQ serves one of the best BBQ sandwiches I have ever had. I want to go back!
Current Mood:
still sleepy